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22-01-2010, 08:14
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#1 | |||||||||||
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Forza Freak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 738
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Forza Motorsport 3 (xbox 360)
Various Guides and Tips.
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22-01-2010, 08:50
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Forza Freak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 738
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DLC cars to date 22/01/10
2005 Acura Forzasport NSX R3 711
1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Stradale F 164 1964 Aston Martin DB5 Vantage E 265 2008 Aston Martin DBS A523 2005 Aston Martin ForzaMotorsport DB9 Coupe S 661 2010 Aston Martin One-77 S 684 2009 Aston Martin #007 Aston Martin Lola R1 976 2010 Audi S4 C 391 2009 Audi RS 6 B 480 2010 Audi R8 5.2 Community Edition A 558 2010 Audi ForzaMotorsport R8 5.2 Fsi Quattro S 687 2009 Audi R8 LMS Show Car R3 712 2009 Audi #2 Audi Sport Team Joest R15 TDi R1 983 1981 BMW M1 C 392 2010 BMW M6 Coupe B 455 1960 Chevrolet Corvette F 198 2010 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport A 543 2009 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 S 638 1969 Dodge Charger Daytona Hemi D 322 2008 Dodge xbox360 Charger Stock car R3 713 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa C 361 2007 Ferrari 430 Scuderia S 636 2010 Ferrari 458 Italia S 641 2010 Ferrari 599 XX R3 754 1980 Fiat 131 Abarth F 134 2010 Ford Shelby GT 500 B460 2010 Hyundai HKS Genesis Coupe B 497 2010 Hyundai Rhys Millen Racing Genesis Coupe R3 736 2010 Hyundai Forza Motorsport Genesis Coupe R2 856 2010 Jaguar XFR B 499 1967 Lamborghini Miura P400 D 329 2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera S 603 2010 Lamborghini LPb670-4 SV S 648 2009 Lotus 2-Eleven A 572 2009 Mercedes Benz SLR Stirling Moss S 638 1971 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R F 131 2010 Nissan GT-R Spec V S 609 2003 Nissan Forza Motorsport Fairlady Z S 645 2010 Pagani Zonda R R2 848 2010 Porsche Boxter S B 447 2010 Porsche Panamera Turbo A 517 2007 Porsche 911 GT3 RS (997) A 562 2010 Saleen S5S Raptor S 647 1965 Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe B 476
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22-01-2010, 08:51
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You need to lick my balls
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Nice one mate.
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15-07-2010, 14:19
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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I'll try too help with this section if ya like smoke, i'm pretty limited too Aclass knowledge but i can give a rough guide too cars that suit certain tracks, competative lap times for on live play etc.
Even too a point of which upgrades for cars i've used and been competative with. I fancy leaving the tuned races behind so have no objection puttin my tunes up here for common knowlege. |
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16-07-2010, 18:33
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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a very helpful guide i found that helped me start tuning on forza. I take no credit for this its by a gamer called manualclutch.
This guide will help you tune and be faster. Beware this is a lot of reading so try not to soak it all in at once. lol. Sorry if there is no color its easier to follow with color but i do not know how to use it. Thank you - CerebralColton for the Differential guide! And KTLR for the Damping guide ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tires. You can't transmit your car's power and handling potential to the roadwithout the right tire setup, because tire pressure affects a tire'speak grip, responsiveness and wear. Adjust the front tire pressure whenthe tires are cold so they reach peak grip after they heat up to racetemperatures. Note from Time: Peak Grip Temperature is between 180 and 210 degrees This is a Master's Class Tuning and you need to use the telemetry for this. Start by picking any track and test run 3 laps in test drive mode, now bring up the heat and tires misc. telemetry and observe the temperature & pressure. Tires reach peak friction at 32 psi; however as long as you're running a race psi of 30-34 degrees, you're still in good grip range. Race psi and race temperature is measured after a few laps when your tires have heated up and reached their performance levels. Tire Temp - Cause - Recommended Adjustment Center hotter than edges - Tire pressure too high - Reduce 1 psi for each 5 deg F difference ***** * ** * * ** * * ** * ***** Edges hotter than center - Tire pressure too low - Add 1 psi for each 5 deg F difference ***** * ** * * ** * * ** * ***** Inner edge hotter than outer edge - Too much negative camber - Decrease negative camber ***** * ** * * ** * * ** * ***** Outer edge hotter than inner edge - Not enough negative camber or too much toe-in - Increase negative camber or decrease toe-in ***** * ** * * ** * * ** * ***** Tire below peak temperature range - Tire pressure too high, tire too wide or springs/sway bars too soft at that axle - Decrease tire pressure. reduce tire width or stiffen up springs and sway bars on that axle Tires above peak temperature range - Tire pressure too low, tire too narrow, or springs/sway bars too stiff at that axle - Increase tire pressure, increase tire width or soften up springs and sway bars on that axle Front tires hotter than rear - Car is under steering. Too much front spring/sway bar, not enough rear spring/sway bar, front pressure too high, front tires too narrow, rear tires too wide - Soften up front spring and sway bar, stiffen up rear spring and sway bar, increase front pressure or decrease rear pressure Rear tires hotter than front - Car is over steering. Too much rear spring/sway bar, not enough front spring/sway bar, front pressure too high, rear pressure too low, rear tires too narrow, front tires too wide - Soften up rear spring and sway bar, stiffen up front spring and sway bar, increase rear pressure or decrease front pressure I hope you use the telemetry to adjust this setting based on your driving. This is the correct way to set it, so the next time some dude tell you 28/28 or 29/28 ask him how he came to that conclusion ...just make that you did the 3 laps to see if the pressure reached its peak which is 32... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alignment. Handling characteristics are usually defined by over steering and under steering. Over steering is fish tailing, when the back end comes out. good for drift bad for race pace. Under steering is when the car experiences little or no steering when your trying to to turn left or right. Camber, Toe and Caster The three major alignment parameters on a car are toe, camber, and caster.Most enthusiasts have a good understanding of what these settings are and what they involve, but many may not know why a particular setting is called for, or how it affects performance. Let's take a quick look at this basic aspect of suspension tuning. Once you understand the terminology you can move into the adjustment stage. What is Toe? My simplest analogy is made to pigeons and ducks. Most people's feet point straight ahead. Compared that to a pigeon or duck there is a significant difference. In some people, however, the feet point inward.This is called in toeing (say "in-toe-ing"), or "pigeon feet." If your Charlie Chaplin then I'm sure you've seen his duck walk with his toes pointing outward. Top down view of a tire in pairs Toe - Straight (0 degrees) / \ **** **** | **** **** | **** **** | **** **** | **** **** Toe - In (Positive Degrees) / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** Toe - Out (Negative Degrees] \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** The amount of toe can be expressed in degrees as the angle to which the wheels are out of parallel Toe settings affect three major areas of performance: ◦Tire Wear For minimum tire wear and power loss, the wheels on a given axle of a car should point directly ahead when the car is running in a straight line. Excessive toe-in or toe-out causes the tires to scrub, since they are always rotating relative to the direction of travel. Too much toe-in causes accelerated wear at the outboard edges of the tires Too much toe-out causes wear at the inboard edges. ◦Straight-line Stability So if minimum tire wear and power loss are achieved with zero toe, why have any toe angles at all? is that toe settings have a major impact on directional stability. With the steering wheel centered, toe-in causes the wheels to tend to roll along paths that intersect each other. Under this condition, the wheels are at odds with each other, and no turn results.Even with slight steering input the rolling paths of the wheels still don't make a turn. In this way, toe-in enhances straight-line stability. ◦Corner Entry Only If the car is set up with toe-out on the front tires any minute steering angle beyond the perfectly centered position will cause the inner wheel to steer in a tighter turn radius than the outer wheel. Thus, the car will always be trying to enter a turn, rather than maintaining a straight line of travel. So it's clear that toe-out encourages the initiation of a turn, while toe-in discourages it What is Camber? Have you seen the stance of a skier, usually their knees are closer than the feet. This stance is said to be a camber effect. Imagine running on a200m oval track. When on the corner, you feel to get better track traction you need to make your outer feet is touch the inner side of your feet. Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel when viewing from the front or rear of the car. Camber is probably the most useful and popular alignment adjustment that can be made to a streetcar. Maximum cornering force is achieved when the camber of the outside wheels relative to the ground is about -0.5 degrees. A slight negative camber in a turn maximizes the tire contact patch due to the way the tire deforms under lateral load. Hence, it is good to have some negative camber to increase cornering force. View from the front of a car Camber - Straight (0 degrees) **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** Camber - (Negative Degrees) / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** Camber - Out (Positive Degrees] \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** The best way to determine the proper camber for competition is to measure the temperature profile across the tire tread immediately after completing some hot laps. In general, it's desirable to have the inboard edge of the tire slightly hotter than the outboard edge. What is Caster? This is probably the hardest to explain. The technical description is the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or rearward from vertical, as viewed from the side. Lost? Don't worry I bring it back with some diagrams. Picture a Harley with a long nose or fork.This a positive caster setting that is very high. Makes it good to go straight mostly, but the mini will beat it at turning radius. Ina car you have ball joints connected to your wheels. These keep the wheels attached to the car. Also you have a steering column attached to the ball joint. The angle between the joint and the steering is the caster angle. Say you driving down the straight on the hwy and you need to get your hands of the wheel. Notice how easily the car continues to go straight when you let your hands off. This is because of caster in the wheel. Anything attached to a wheel has caster. With caster you have a positive and negative setting. In Forza its represented by low and high. Forza doesn't have a negative caster because cars are not designed the same way the casters are in shopping carts. Positive Caster which provides good directional control but harder top speed cornering. Negative Caster does not provide good directional control stability but easier low speed cornering. Top Down View of a car ****** ****** () <- Lower Ball Joint ****** ****** () <- Upper Ball Joint ****** Side View of a car ******** *******(*)* () <- Lower Ball Joint *********** ****(*)**** () <- Upper Ball Joint ******** Low Caster (Positive) of a Car ******** *******(*)* () <- Lower Ball Joint *********** ******(*)* () <- Upper Ball Joint ******* High Caster (Positive) of a Car ******** *******(*)* () <- Lower Ball Joint *********** *(*)******* () <- Upper Ball Joint ******** Low Caster (Negative) of a shopping cart ******** **(*)****** () <- Upper Ball Joint *********** *****(*)** () <- Upper Ball Joint ******** Notice the shopping cart. see how easy it becomes to turn at a low speed.Imagine 60 mph with that caster setup turning left of right would be dangerous. So high caster is good but makes it hard to turn, low caster is bad make it hard to keep straight. Now for fun part. Tuning Questions? What are you experiencing when you drive the car through turns. Over steer or Under steer? Camber Patience is the key because alignment tuning is the hardest in Forza. Again you will need a telemetry for this. Stop the car completely on a flat track with no elevation. Launch Telemetry and go to Tires. Note the camber angle the car makes with the road. If it matches the setting you have tuned then you are on flat surface. Restart tuning and race for a couple of hot laps. Usually 3 is good enough. Don't worry about red penalty. Stop after 3 and watch the replay. During there play launch the telemetry and jump to the "Tires Misc". you need to watch the replay at least 2 times to get this down. Start by looking at the camber angle on the front wheels. Note how many times you see a positive number. Repeat for the rear tires on the 2nd replay. Now go back to tuning and change the following if applicable Positive camber on straights - Decrease camber by .1 Positive camber on turns - Decrease camber by .1 No Positive camber on straights - Increase camber by .1 No Positive camber on turns - Increase camber by .1 Whats the point? Positive camber is the enemy and reduces traction and stability. Tuning for Cornering. For Left Turn The Left Tire must be less than or equal to 0.0 degrees. For Right Turn The Right Tire must be less than or equal to 0.0 degrees. Closer to 0 better the handling. Anything above 0 means that the tire is not helping you. Toe General Rule of Thumb Is to Improve the car for corner entry. Combination's include Front Toe + Rear Toe 0 <- Better Corner Entry Any Car Front Toe - Rear Toe 0 <- Reduce Steer Sensitivity Bad Corner Entry Front Toe 0 Rear Toe + <- Under steer tendencies but Better Corner Exit in any Car and stability under braking. Front Toe 0 Rear Toe - <- Slow Corner Exit Front Toe + Rear Toe + <- Provides stability under braking and creates over steer tendencies in cornering. Front Toe + Rear Toe - <- Amazing Handling on any car but can cause understeer Front Toe - Rear Toe + <- Amazing Handling on any car but can cause oversteer Front Toe - Rear Toe - <- Oval track Examples Any Car for Better Turn In Response Front Toe Out : .1 (duck feet ready for turning left or right) \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** \ **** **** / \ **** **** | **** **** | **** **** | **** **** | **** **** Cars with massive power and no handling. Front: 0 Rear Toe In: -.1 (pigeon feet, ready to face the direction of turn on acceleration) / \ **** **** | **** **** | **** **** | **** **** | **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** / **** **** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Brakes. What is Brake Bias? Brake bias is the balance of braking power between the front and rear brakes.It is usually represented as a percentage. For example, a brake bias of65/35 means that the front brakes get 65% of the braking power, and the rear brakes get 35% of the braking power. Why do I need to know? Brake bias controls the way that the car handles when the brakes are applied.Therefore, it is useful in changing the corner entry handling characteristics of a car if braking is necessary going into a corner. What happens on adjustment? Moving the brake bias toward the front brakes makes the car tighter and more stable while braking and entering a turn. Moving the brake bias toward the rear makes the car looser while braking and entering a turn.Excessive front braking power can lock up the front tires and decrease the overall effectiveness of your brakes since you are not using the rear tires to slow down the car. Rule of Thumb The front brakes should always have more braking power than the rear because the weight transfer during braking loads the front tires an dun loads the rear tires. If you have too much rear brake, the rear tires will lock as weight transfers forward and makes the rear of the car lighter. However, make sure you do not have too much front brake either. How To Tune Brakes? Asa starting point "TURN ABS OFF", try setting your brake bias between70/30 and 80/20. Fine-tune the car from there. I found that the Optimal Setting is 47% Front. I will get into the pressure later. As Usual Replay Your Runs and Bring Up Telemetry and go to Friction. Reading the Telemetry for Friction is as follows. Red Circles is a visual of the grip available at each tire, and the blue lines inside them are the amount of grip you are actually asking the tire to produce. This displays a more detailed brake down of the "Friction Circle" type telemetry from the "Body Acceleration" telemetry screen.If you watch the red circles off the start line, the front ones will get slightly smaller and the back ones will grow. That is because a tire's grip is related to the amount of weight on that tire... more weight = more grip, to an extent. So as you jump on the gas, weight shifts backward, and the rear circles grow because your rear tires have more grip. When you go into a corner, you will also see the circles change size as weight shifts side-to-side. jump over a curb, and the circles disappear if the tire leaves the ground! The blue line shows how much you are asking of the tire - if it is outside the red circle, it means you are pushing that tire too hard and it has lost grip, so it is sliding. If you look at the telemetry during a spin, the blue lines will be well outside the red circles. If the blue line is inside the circle, it means that there is more grip available, since the circle is the limit. You are using your tires most effectively when the blue line is touching the red circle. Notice while Braking which circles are getting bigger, usually the front will get bigger than the rear with the bias > that 50% Front. Keep moving 1% Front till you have lost grip completely skidded out as a result of understeer when braking. Move back 1% to be in the safe zone. Tuning Brake Pressure Also look at the brake indicator (vertical red line on the left of the telemetry) notice if you are completely at 100% or just 70%. This will simply your braking input sensitivity on the controller. Once you have found the optimal setting for your brake bias. Brake pressure will improve your stopping. Based On Braking Style You Maybe Doing 1 of the following: 1. On Demand (Pull the trigger all the way back) 2. On Power (Pull the trigger all the way back with acceleration) 3. Off Throttle Down Shift Half Brake (Pull the trigger half way) With ABS OFF (ABS ON counters your braking, meaning more the light is on the more your travelling forward) 1.On Demand: Try going for a less brake pressure, you want all the tires to skid only when the trigger is completely back. Try tuning so that you have a little play to create a skid and a good brake. Start at100% and keep going down 5% till you have that perfect brake. Using the Telemetry make sure you have 4 big red circles when skidding to indicate good brake bias. 2. On Power: Same as above but make sure you don't get into a race-brake situation where your locking the front and burning the rears tires..looks cool but can be costly. 3.Off Throttle: Brake sensitivity is the key. You use only 10~40% on sensitivity (i.e depressing the brake 1/2 to 1/4, you never completely hold the entire brake down during a race (unless you want to show off your ABS skills lol). You know how to lock brakes to your advantage.You use the gear down to your advantage ONLY AFTER you started braking.Typically you keep going up in pressure settings because feel you can stop at a dime. I'm personally at 130~160% in most cars without ABS. Since the game came out I've been doing without ABS so now it comes a bit natural. Bottom line is if you can drive with TCS off you can do the same with ABS off. If you can gently squeezing the throttle coming out of a corner, you can gently squeeze the brakes. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gear Ratio. Tuning Gear Ratios Gearing is the key to better acceleration, braking, cornering and top speed. There are endless debates on torque and horse power and we wont get into that here.You know this because most American/German cars make torque and Japanese make horsepower. But its important to understand the terminology. The Formula Torque X RPM Horsepower = ----------------------- 5252 Case for Torque Any given car, in any given gear, will accelerate at a rate that *exactly*matches its torque curve (allowing for increased air and rolling resistance as speeds climb). Another way of saying this is that a car will accelerate hardest at its torque peak in any given gear, and will not accelerate as hard below that peak, or above it. Torque is the only thing that a driver feels, and horsepower is just sort of an esoteric measurement in that context. 300 foot pounds of torque will accelerate you just as hard at 2000 rpm as it would if you were making that same torque at 4000 rpm in the same gear, yet, per the formula, the horsepower would be *double* at 4000 rpm. Therefore, horsepower isn't particularly meaningful from a driver's perspective, and the two numbers only get friendly at 5252 rpm, where horsepower and torque always come out the same. Case for Horsepower OK.If torque is so all-fired important, why do we care about horsepower?Because, "It is better to make torque at high rpm than at low rpm,because you can take advantage of *gearing*. Telemetry Tuning Note you cars Peak Torque RPM and Peak Horsepower RPM. Go to Test Drive in the Oval --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks to CerebralColton Differential. Acceleration(accel)- The higher the percentage the quicker the differential locks, having your differential too quickly can cause your back end to slide out which it causes under steer and the front wheels causing over steer. But if the diff doesn't lock quickly enough, the inside wheel is likely to slip, causing you to lose traction, and can cause under steer and overseer in RWD cars. (understeer in fwd and AWD cars) Deceleration(deccel)- The higher the percentage the more stable your car will be, but if its too high your car will under steer, if its too low then it won't really help you all. On AWD cars the the decel on the front wheels shouldn't be any higher the 40%. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BIG thanks to KTLR -Damping: Controls the suspension's stiffness and compression between wheel and the wheel-well. Both Rebound and Bump work in "reverse-way", for example having the Front Rebound higher than rear increases grip on the rear, because more weight is concentrated in the front tires under spring compression, so rear wheels can work more freely. Rebound Stiffness: Increasing Front Rebound - More grip in the rear (weight shift blah blah etc.) Decreasing Front Rebound - Reduces transitional understeer Increasing Rear Rebound - More grip in the front Decreasing Rear Rebound - Reduces transitional oversteer Front biased Rebound - Increases understeer & increases grip in RWD cars, sacrificing turn-in slightly Rear biased Rebound - Increases oversteer & highly recommended for FWD & AWD cars. (The bigger the balance difference, the bigger the effect - bigger than 3.0 differences not encouraged) You cant really have excessively high Rebound setups, it all depends what the Bump stiffnesses are set to. If you are using high Rebound (9.0+) with low Bump (<4.0) your car may become upset by curbs and such, this is also modified by ride height and suspension stiffnesses. Higher Rebound than Bump is a must. The Bump stiffness should be 75% of the Rebound's stiffness at maximum.Although the in-game Damping description says ~50% of the Rebound's stiffness should be minimum, it really doesnt have to be. Low bump stiffness works great. Bump Stiffness: Increasing Front Bump - Increases understeer and slightly increases rear grip + modifies the effectiveness of Damping and Spring setups Increasing Rear Bump - Increases oversteer and slightly increases front grip + modifies the effectiveness of Damping and Spring setups Decreasing Front Bump - Improves bump absorption + modifies the effectiveness of Damping & Springs Decreasing Rear Bump - Improves bump absorption + modifies the effectiveness of Damping & Springs Front biased Bump - Increases understeer + slightly increases grip in RWD cars Rear biased Bump - Increases oversteer & highly recommended for FWD & AWD cars. (The bigger the balance difference, the bigger the effect - bigger than 2.0 differences not encouraged) You will know when your Bump stiffness is excessively high. The chassis feels like it floats on the tires and you feel unconnected to the road. A good, practical way to test out your bump stiffness if you dont want understand all the mumbogumbo, is to take a mild curb aggressively and then seeing if the car rolls. (Dont try Sebring or Maple curbs, they'll roll you no matter what). If it rolls, your setup is too stiff, if you already had your bump at <3.5 then the problem is in your ride height or rebound. Bump stiffness can always be kept relatively low. (I personally never use 5.0+ bump stiffness). Bump stiffness in general finetunes the damping and suspension. Tune the springs & ride height before going over to damping. Also; Rear-biased Damping works for RWD cars well too, front-biased is just one of the several ways to increase grip on some RWD cars, not necessarily on all of them. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In other words, we could all die from a massive earth fart. - Brett Dykes (Yahoo news reporter) ------------- Just call me MC ------------- Have a question or need help Forza related? Or just want to stay in contact? MSN - manualclutch@live.com Enjoy |
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16-07-2010, 18:50
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You need to lick my balls
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Without doubt, that is actually the best tuning guide I have EVER seen for Forza. Someone with an understanding of mongs who can't tune actually has taken the time to explain it in a way we can all understand.
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16-07-2010, 19:24
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King God of all gods
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Madsville
Posts: 19,069
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Quote:
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16-07-2010, 19:34
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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The only part i'd say too add too is that everycar reacts too tunes differently, I'd try using a forza calc first then use this as a referance for each car. If you go through this guide on a particular car it can take maybe a couple of 2-3 hr stints just tuning. Thats why i only have 1 really good tune. The rest are there or there abouts. My viper can hotlap mugello 4 secs faster than any other tune i have and its the onlyone i haven't uploadede too storefront. Any tune on my storefront has all parts and is at the point where this guide will take it further. Anyone interested in one let me know which and instead of buying it i'll gift ya so ya can do the improvements and it wont be locked.
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16-07-2010, 19:50
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185 BHP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 19,163
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Quote:
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26-07-2010, 14:32
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#10 | |||||||||||
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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This is an Easy Money tip, This is only available through online play!!!
Go too Multiplayer, then choose private race. On The settings tab change the race too Benchmark Layout A, Put yourself against 7 A.I set too hard. Next change the laps to 50 (a lot i know but bear with me) Change all the assists to off but keep damage to cosmetic. Change car class too R1. Your ready to start now i'd really go for the peugeot R1 Race car at 997 pi. When you start the race the A.I will follow the correct route through the warehouses and around the the outside of the ring while you can shoot too the inner wall and run pretty close too that. You can get around the whole curcuit in 5th gear with minimal braking or just letting off. my lap record is around 18 secs while the A.I run at about 39secs. It takes around 15mins too complete but will bag you 88000 credits. its that easy i went made a brew came back and was still 2000+ mtrs in front lol Its no glitch in any way shape or form cos you still complete the race your being paid for. Offline Money Glitch (patched so you need to delete your forza Save and do it offline with no updates) This is how i understand the glitch without trying it for myself so please if you do use it try with an offline profile not your own. The full glitch is pretty much the same as forza 2 but you load your camaro 25th aniversery with every part and engine going, press start click reset parts then press your xbox button and sign out. Sign back in and go too my cars you'll have the car with all the parts on but not lost the money you paid too make it. so you sell the car back too the game for £XXXX. If you exit the upgrade shop at anytime during the process you'll be charged for the parts. Like someone said in another thread there are some very good tunes available on the storefront or even on the forums http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/fo...howThread.aspx some tuners have put base tunes on so you can use them and be able too modify them yourselve's or even sell them haha Hope its helpfull Gask/KraK Last edited by UsR KrAx; 26-07-2010 at 14:33. Reason: too many o's ha |
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26-07-2010, 18:02
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#11 |
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You need to lick my balls
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88000 is decent for 15 mins. Is there not endurance races though where you hire drivers?
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26-07-2010, 21:02
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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I think that when i tried it, i set it off and left it, my controller disconnected cos i didnt have my charge kit plugged in and it paused haha came back couple of hour later and it was on say lap 7 ha, the endurance races still take hours too complete for not much more this is say a quick fix too money matters ha
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26-07-2010, 23:20
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#13 |
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You need to lick my balls
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Thing is with endurance races, I can text one of my bros hourly to do it while sitting in a pub
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27-07-2010, 09:09
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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Quote:
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27-07-2010, 20:57
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King God of all gods
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Madsville
Posts: 19,069
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Tune me some cars krak !!
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28-07-2010, 14:50
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#16 | ||||||||||||
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UsR KrAx
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wigan
Posts: 325
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Quote:
xX UnionJ xX  ? is that still your tag
Last edited by UsR KrAx; 28-07-2010 at 15:01. Reason: bit more |
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